The
Bland or the Bountiful?
Notes on Australian dining
between World Wars 1 & 2
A group of us have been meeting monthly to talk about food
and food writing. At our last meeting the question was raised as to whether
Australian food cooked in home until some time in the late 60s early 70s really
was as plain as those of us old enough to remember recall it as being or
mythologising has made it. The first formulation of this was actually that the
food was ‘bland’ but this was howled down as a slur on the quality of Aussie
meat if nothing else, and so we settled on ‘plain’ as the descriptor.
We didn’t define plain, but let me suggest what we all had
in mind. Plain means a number of things. The first is simplicity of preparation
as opposed to difficulty or elaborateness. Adding flour and water to pan juices
post roasting to make gravy is plain, making béchamel sauce is not. Putting a
leg of lamb in a pan and roasting it is plain, inserting slivers of garlic into
pockets in the flesh, marinating in red wine/garlic/herbs is elaborate. Minimal
flavouring is another meaning. Serving up undressed boiled potatoes is plain;
serving up roasted potato wedges with chilli garlic mayonnaise is not. Plain in
this context also means stereotypically British working class food of the late
19th and early 20th centuries. Stew is plain; cassoulet
is not.
We decided to bring to our next discussion our thoughts on
this following our own research into the subject, limiting ourselves to what
Australian’s ate between the First and Second World Wars. What follows are some
notes on the subject. I have focused on dinner only as it was the main meal for
most households during the period. I don’t discuss cakes, biscuits, sweet tarts
or desserts in general on the grounds that it would be a lay down misere for
non-plain food.
Keeping it simple?
. This is the period that Michael Symonds, writing in 1982, has said
displayed ‘what we regard as Australia’s most typical eating and drinking’, a
time in which ‘the dominant model of male behaviour was aggressively
uncultivated’ and made of Australians ‘lazy eaters and sudden drinkers’.
(Symonds p138).
So what kind of meals did these ‘lazy eaters’ consume?
‘Breakfast was a hearty meal, with oatmeal porridge or the
latest American breakfast cereals doused with milk and white sugar. This was
followed by a hot course of bacon and eggs or grilled or fried chops, steak,
sausages or liver and bacon of a combination of these with eggs...dinner was of
three courses, commencing with pea soup or broth. Next came a meat dish of beef
or mutton or possibly Yorkshire pudding. Boiled mutton appeared with carrots,
turnips and caper, onion or parsley sauce. ...The Woman’s Mirror book noted a tendency “to eliminate the
characteristic flavours of rabbits, hares, and game by soaking them in salt
water for hours’. The Commonsense
(Cookery Book) had sections on Green Vegetables, Root Vegetables and Dressed
Vegetables. The greens made quite a
list: asparagus, broad beans, French beans, celery, cabbage, cauliflower,
chokoes, globe artichokes, green peas, spinach or silver beet, vegetable squash
and pumpkin – and all of them boiled. The alternative was “baked vegetables”...The
routine was neatly interrupted by the weekend, which might in good weather have
brought a picnic of lamb chops...Saturday afternoon was dominated by
sports...and a light evening meal of beans on toast, sausages and mashed
potatoes. Sunday lunch was a big day for roast, ideally chicken. The evening
meal was perhaps a real “high tea”, using up cold meat...The left over joint
would probably survive until Monday evening when it was made into patties or
shepherd’s pie...And so through the week again until Friday, when many families
replaces butcher’s meat with fish’. (Symonds pp142-144)
So far so plain it would appear preparation-wise and
ingredient wise. This is perhaps not surprising. Certainly the large amount of
meat consumed should not be; there was a lot of it and it was cheap.
‘Clearly, anyone who had a taste for mutton could eat as
much as he or she liked in Australia. It might not have been the world’s best
mutton but it was cheap and abundant. Beef, too, was plentiful, and although
slightly more expensive than mutton for most of the 19th century,
was consumed in even greater quantities. In 1903 it was estimated that the
average Australian ate 61 kilograms of beef and 41 kilograms of mutton.’
(Santich p167).
Then by 1910, a shift occurred toward production of lamb
such that by that year ‘lamb carcasses comprised around 60 per cent of all
mutton and lamb exported from Victoria’ and in ‘New South Wales, the increase
in lamb production occurred from the mid-1920s, by which time Australia was
exporting more lamb than mutton to the British market’. (Santich 172) Lamb
production increased from an 51,700 tons annually in the second half of the
1920s to 138,600 tons in the second half of the 1930s’ which ‘ensured that
plenty was left over for Australian tables, and even more during the war years
when shipping was restricted’ (Santich p177). ‘In the late 1930’s Australians
were eating, on average, 654 grams of mutton and lamb each week’. (Santich
-118).
Symond’s lays some of the blame for the apparent plainness
with the cookery ‘textbooks’ of this period which ‘tended to reinforce plain
English style cooking’. (Symonds p140). That word ‘tended’ is important here
because they did also present the cook with recipes on the paths less travelled
than boiling, baking and grilling. Miss
Gibbs, Principal of the State Cookery School in Sydney in her
Cookery Guide included recipes for
Fricassee of Fowl, Veal au Gratin, Indian Cutlets, Timbale of Lamb, Beef Olives
and Rabbit Casserole. (The book is undated, but likely was published sometime
in the 1920s from the Marcel wave favoured by the women in illustrations
accompanying advertisements in the book). The
Cookery Book of the Presbyterian Church of NSW Women's Missionary
Association (192?)
was less adventurous but did include Carpet Bag steak, Croquettes of Cold Meat,
four kinds of curry, Gateau of Meat and Jugged Hare. The
Goulburn Cookery Book (first published in 1989 and running to 36
editions by 1936) included recipes or Spiced Beef, Rolled Steak au Pomme de
Terre, Brazilian Stew, Chicken Quenelles, and Bobotjes. In
Something Different (1936), the society hostesses of Sydney included
recipes for Pilaff and Paella (Mrs Julian Simpson), Veal of Chicken Paprika (Lady Smith), Breslau
of Beef (Mrs W.D. Meredith), and Dodine de Canard (Lady McKelvey).
Let’s also not overlook that ‘nose-to-tail’ dining was an
everyday thing in these years. Symonds mentions liver, but kidneys,
sweetbreads, tongues, calf’s heads, pig’s heads, ox heads, ox tails, ox eyes,
brains, and tripe were also regularly served up – well, maybe the ox eyes not
so often. And then there was rabbit (Gibbs gives nine recipes), duck, pigeon,
quail and turkey. Granted, often these foodstuffs were simply prepared, but we
are moving away now from a picture of a meal as just a lump of a standard cut
of meat lazily prepared.
Seafood was very much a part of the menu, and not only on
Fridays. The cookbooks show a variety of species and methods of preparation. Eels,
ling, schnapper (sic), whiting, cod, salmon, sardines, prawns, lobster,
crayfish, and oysters, oysters, oysters take up substantial sections in them.
The Kookaburra Cookery Book propose a
Salmon Mould, Bretonne of Oysters, Crayfish au Gratin, Caviched Fish (ceviche)
as well as Baked Fish and several ways with Fillet of Whiting. Carry On has Fish Baked in Paper,
Oysters in White Sauce, and two recipes for Soused Fish. The Goulburn Cookery Book has recipes for
Fillet de Sole Mornay, Fish Kromeskies, Fish Pie , Kedgeree and Lobster A La
Newburg. Lady Smith contributes a
Risotto with Prawns and Mixed Fish in Baked Potatoes to Something Different.
The range of vegetables is also worth noting, and
envying. To Symond’s list above, we can
now add Jerusalem artichokes, aubergines, okra (there’s a recipe for Creole
Gumbo with Chicken in the Kookaburra
Cookery Book and two other recipes for okra); radishes, chestnuts, corn,
lentils, mushrooms, parsnips, Brussels sprouts all in the Kookaburra Cookery Book; Haricot beans in most of the cookbooks; beetroot,
lettuce, additionally in Something
Different. No recipe imagines that these vegetables would be anything but
fresh. Their preparation also goes beyond boiling and baking. Croquettes and au
gratin get frequent mentions; the Kookaburra Cookery Book (1915) suggested
Eggplant Fritters, Tomato Souffle, and a Macedoine of Vegetables a la
Poulette; Mrs E W Knox suggested a
Topinambone of Jerusalem artichokes, and Dorothea McKellar contributed
Aubergines a’l’Italienne as Something
Different.
No garlic, please, we’re
Australian
But what about flavour; will we find plainness there? Barbara Santich
writes ‘In mid 20th century Australian kitchens simplicity reigned;
apart from parsley and mint, there was a notable lack of herbs and spices and
nary a hint of garlic’ (Santich p181).
Well, again, the cookbooks do offer a counter to this. Yes, there is a
lot of parsley, but there are also frequent references to using ‘a bunch of
herbs’ which was probably the Bouquet Garni of parsley, marjoram, thyme and bay
described in the New South Wales Public School Cookery Teachers'
Association Principles of Home Cookery (I am citing the Ninth Edition of
1932). These herbs are also often mentioned separately in various combinations;
Gibbs’s recipe for Beef Olives calls for thyme and marjoram; the Goulburn
Cookery Book adds parsley, thyme, marjoram or mint to it Chops en Casserole.
Garlic, it’s true, is avoided or given
as optional as in Dorothea McKellar/s Aubergines a’l’Italienne, but other
spices are often used. Both the Goulburn Cookery Book and Anne J King in her King,
Annie Carry On. A Collection of recipes
(192?) have recipes for Spiced Beef and while the latter leaves the spices
undefined, the former gives them as pepper, cloves, nutmeg and cayenne. The Kookaburra Cookery Book has a recipe for
Rissoles that are flavoured with pepper, mace, and cayenne. Mrs W.D.
Merewhether’s Breslau of Beef is flavoured with pepper, cayenne and nutmeg.
Gibb’s Rabbit Stew uses a blade of mace and a few peppercorns and her Casserole
of Rabbit uses cloves. Sage and onion made a popular stuffing. Allspice, nutmeg
and ginger also get occasional mentions.
Lemon rind or juice and vinegar are
used to sharpen a dish as for example in the Boston Moulds in the Kookaburra Cookery Book (lemon rind) and
Fricassee of Cold Roast Beef (vinegar) , Jugged Hare in Carry On (lemon rind again), Goulburn’s Stewed Veal (lemon juice),
Gibbs’ Gerard Steak (vinegar) and the Exeter Stew of the Presbyterian
Women’s Missionary Association (vinegar).
Flavour could also be added in the cooking through incorporating home-made
sauces, including Worcestershire sauce, tomato sauce, chilli sauce anchovy
essence and mushroom ketchup, each
‘bold, sharp, and powerful’. (Santich 248). The Kookaburra Cookery Book suggests marinading steak in vinegar,
Worcester (sic) sauce, tomato sauce, sugar, pepper and salt. The German Collops
of the Presbyters use ketchup. Gibbs’ Aberdeen Sausage uses tomato sauce and
Worcestershire sauce.
Another popular flavour additive is bacon, turning up in unusual places.
It’s there in R LeRay’s Ox Tail Soup and the delightfully named Epigrammes of
Lamb With French Beans of Louis Peacock both in the Kookaburra Cookery Book; turns up in the Mulligatawny Soup (No 1)
in the Goulburn Cookery Book; Rabbit
Curry in Carry On; and Gibbs’ Chicken
en Casserole.
Finally, ‘...adding piquancy to the inevitable meals of mutton and beef
were tangy, spicy, pickles and chutneys’. (Santich 248) These were very likely
to be home made; The Presbyterian Women’s Missionary Association cookbook has
five recipes for pickles, seven for chutneys;
The Kookaburra Cookery Book has 13 chutneys and 14 pickles; Carry On has 19 chutneys and 11 pickles.
The ubiquity of these flavourings is attested to in the 1920
Royal Commission into the Basic Wage in 1920 where ‘Prof W A Osborne suggested
that the average family of 5 required one bottle of tomato sauce and a half of
Worcestershire sauce per week, together with half a bottle of pickle, one pint
vinegar, one ounce mustard, or even more of curry powder’. (Santich 246)
The flavours of Empire
The chutneys on the table introduce us to the other major step away
from the plain in Australian cooking since the earliest days of the British
colony here – the influence of the flavours and food of India in particular and
South Asia more generally. Chatni (to give it its Hindi spelling) is a relish
eaten to add taste to the staples of rich and lentils. Taken up first by the
traders of the British East India Company and then popularised via the British
Raj it was inevitable that it would accompany British migrants to the furthest
outposts of the British Empire, Australia being one of them.
‘The British...adopted (chutney) with enthusiasm, tending
perhaps to emphasize the sweet aspect of what is essentially sour or sweet and
sour. British chutneys are usually spiced, sweet, fruit pickles, having
something of the consistency of jam.’ (Davidson p186).
The recipes in the Kookaburra Cookery Book give an idea of
the range of vegetable and fruit that was boiled up in the kitchens of
Australia in these years: apple, apricot, choko, date, damson, grape, gramma,
green tomato, mango, melon, plum, paw paw, red tomato, rosella, vegetable
marrow.
Curries were adopted with equally enthusiasm and every one
of the cookbooks reviewed for this article carry at least one recipe for
curried something or other; the Presbyterian Women’s Association has eight and
the Kookaburra Cookery Book takes the ribbon with 15 including curries of
sardines, ox tail, walnuts, mixed vegetables, peaches, chestnuts, oysters and
radishes.
The basic flavouring was ‘curry powder’ which goes undefined
in all the cookbooks. Commercial curry
powders had been available in England from the late 18th century.
Colonel Kenney-Herbert writing in 1985 gave the standard ingredients as
turmeric, coriander, cumin, fenugreek, mustard, chilli, peppercorns, poppy seed
and dry ginger. (Davidson p236). The other common ingredient was a cooking/sour
apple, and Worcestershire sauce, lemon juice and vinegar were also added often
either together or separately to mimic the sour flavour given by tamarind and
lime in the dishes of India.
The other staple of Indian origin was Mulligatawny Soup which
could be made with fish, chicken or meat of any description; onion; usually
included root vegetables like carrot or turnips; a green apple, sometimes ham
or bacon; and of course curry powder; all of which was a far cry from its
origins as Tamilian mullaga thanni – ‘pepper water’.
But not only curry
Running through all of what has been discussed so far is an unspoken
assumption as to which Australians are being spoken of. Taking 1933 as
something like a mid-point in our discussion, of the 6,629,839 people counted
in the Census that year 5,726,566 gave their birthplace as Australia.
A further 712, 458 gave their birthplaces as in the British Isles (486,831
England; 132,489 Scotland; 78,652 Ireland; 14,486 Wales). Not unexpectedly It
is these ‘white’ Australians who are the focus of most food writing about this
period, and it is a cuisine largely influenced by British foodways that is
described.
However, there had been migration from across the globe since the
earliest days of the British colonies with some notable influxes over the
years. Let’s turn to looking at the three most significant of these migrant
populations during the early part of the 20th Century.
While German migrants had been the most prominent group in the early
years of the colonies, with 38,352 recorded at the start of the 20th
century, anti-German feeling, internment and ultimately deportation during the
World War One saw many German’s leave Australia and by 1933 their numbers stood
at only 16,842. (Statistics Section p42)
Angela Heuzenroeder has written extensively on the foodways of the
Lutheran Germans who settled in the Barossa Valley of South Australia. From the
first days of settlement there in 1841 ‘All the elements were there in the
Barossa to keep the original culture intact for a good long while’, (Heuzenroeder
p8). She lists some of the food from these early communities remember or still
made in 1991 – Streuselkuchen (a cake from Silesia), Schlesisches (a dish of
smoked pork, dried fruits and dumplings from Silesia) Sauerkraut, Blutwurst,
Leberwurst, Mettwurst, Quark, Kochkase and Stinkerkase (all three cheeses). But
with increasing English migration, these dishes declined in popularity and ‘the
1914-18 World War and its aftermath sent them underground’. (Heuzenroeder p14).
The first edition of the Barossa Cookery
Book:400 Tried Recipes reflected this with a recipe for German Sausage ‘the
only recipe in the book that dares to show any Teutonic connections’
((Heuzenroeder p18). It was not until the third edition published in the
mid-thirties that recipes appeared for ‘cucumbers pickled in dill and vine
leaves and several versions of German cake’. (Heuzenroeder p19)
Did German food find its way into the average Australian kitchen? The
evidence from the cookbooks is scant. There are no identifiably German recipes
in the Goulburn Cookery Book;
Frankfurts with Cheese Sauce gets into Mrs Gibbs’ as does Sauerkraut; The
Presbyterian Women’s Missionary Association give a single recipe for German
Collops and German Patties and German Biscuits are in the Kookaburra Cookery Book, though in each of these cases it’s hard to
see what makes them particularly German. Lady Smith does contribute Red Cabbage
(German Recipe) which is a concoction of floured sautéed cabbage, vinegar and
sugar.
Chinese domestic servants and labourers began to arrive in Australia in
1827. Then came the major influx of Chinese to the goldfields in the 1850s
until by the population of the China-born in Australia had reached 38,258, 3.4
per cent of the total Australian population. (Statistics Section p48). But as
the gold ran out many returned to China. Chinese were the specific target of
the Immigration and Restriction Act 1901
and the White Australia Policy. By 1921 the China-born population had declined
to 15,224, and only 8,579 Chinese born persons were recorded in the 1933
census.
But what of a Chinese influence in Australian kitchens? Symonds says
that this was more by way of the raw materials than the techniques or flavours.
While there were Chinese cookshops all over the gold fields they were not
frequented by other miners. But ‘Chinese
on the goldfields were supplied by a chain of compatriot merchants,
storekeepers, gardeners and fishermen, who dried their catch to send
inland. This trade steadily broadened
and by about 1880 they virtually fed every settlement in Australia’. 9Symonds
p75) This continued well into the 20th Century. Chinese were also
prominent as cooks in other eating places and hotels but they stuck with
English fare. Chinese cafes did not become an integral part of the Australian
urban and rural landscape until the 1950s. Few ventured into the cafes in the Chinatowns
of Haymarket-Dixon Street in Sydney and Little Bourke Street in Melbourne. One
of these was the journalist E.M.Clowes who was a regular in the latter where
she would ‘sup on savoury ragout of duck, served in a porcelain bowl, flanked
by lesser bowls, each filled with some mysterious odoriferous condiment, or
venture daringly on eggs of an infinite age and most potent flavour’. (Symonds
p79). The cookbooks reviewed for this article show nary a sign of an
identifiably Chinese dish. However, there is one significant influence of
Chinese cuisine that goes largely unacknowledged – ketchup. ‘Ketchup originally
meant “fish sauce” in a dialect of China’s other southern coastal region,
mountains Fujian province...” ( Jurafsky p48). It was Fujianese settlers who
took ke-tchup to South East Asia from whence it made its way via spice seeking
merchants to Britain, becoming ‘as profitable for British merchants as they
were for Chinese traders’. (Jurafsky p57). It was here that it was transformed
into the mushroom ketchup that is a frequent addition to a meat dish in the
Australian kitchen.
While the story of the German and Chinese populations during this time
is one of decline, it was the reverse for Italian migrants. At the 1901 Census
only 5,678 gave Italy as their birth place. By 1933, this had swelled to 26,756
Italy making them the largest non-United Kingdom born group in Australia. This
growth is attributed to two factors; the restrictive immigration policies of
the United States during the intervening years, and a depressed economy in
Italy post Work War One. (Statistics Section p36) So what of the Italian
influence at the Australian table during these years?
Pasta appears to be the majority of it from a look at the cookbooks. The
Kookaburra Cookery Book gives us
Neapolitan Croquettes built from chicken and macaroni cut small, Macaroni Soup
and Roman Pudding again made with macaroni. Carry
On gives as a Tomato Spaghetti Soup and a Mock Macaroni for Soups - which consists of an egg mixed with flour
till stiff and thence to be cut into strips and dried, and Spaghetti Mince and
with Tomatoes. Gibbs gives us Fish and Macaroni in a pie topped with a fresh
tomato sauce. All these call for dried pasta that is to be cooked in boiling
water, not tinned pasta in tomato sauce as was popular in the 50s and 60s. The
other identifiably Italian ingredient is Parmesan cheese, appearing Mrs Ware’s
Potatoes A La Genovese in The Kookaburra
Cookery Book but not specified as the cheese in Tilly Parkinson’s Potatoes
A L’Italienne.It appears again in Dorothy McKellar’s Aubergines a’l’Italienne
in, a kind of eggplant Parmigiana, and Mrs R Broadbent’s Parmesan Puree both in
Something Different. Mrs M S Hawker
contributes two egg recipes to the Kookaburra
Cookery Book – Uova Col Pomodoro and Uova Trippate – but neither comes
across as particularly Italian. But there are no signs of those signifiers of
Italian food for many Australians today – olive oil and pizza. Symonds includes
a fancied description of a night at Fasoli’s in Melbourne in the early part of
the century, one of the restaurants favoured by the Bohemian set as they other
such were in Kings Cross in Sydney. (Symonds p121; Mackenzie and Pryor).
The great changes to the average Australian in-home meal, however, were
yet to come, first with the mass migration from Europe post World War Two and
then as Australia turned its gaze north to South East Asia.
References
Allen, Mary (Compiler) Something Different for Dinner Angus and
Robertson Ltd, Sydney 1936
Davidson, Alan The Oxford Companion to Food Oxford University Press, Oxford, 1999
Everything a lady should know George B. Philip and Son, Sydney 190(?)
Gibbs, A Miss Gibb's Cookery Guide, The Central Press, Sydney 19(??)
Heuzenroeder, Angela Barossa food Wakefield Press, Kent Town,
1999
Hook, George England Australian Fruit Preserving. A Practical
Treatise Sydney and Melbourne Publishing Co, Sydney 192(?)
Jurafsky, Dan The Language of Food. A linguist reads the menu W.W.Norton &
Company, 2014
King, Annie J Carry On. A Collection of recipes Northern Star, Lismore 1918 (my
copy is a 5th edition of 1926)
Lady Victoria Buxton Girl’s Club The Kookaburra Cookery Book of Culinary and Household Recipes and Hints
W E Cole, Melbourne Vic 1915
Maclurcan, Hannah Mrs Maclurcan’s Cookery Book T Wilmett,
Townsville QLD 1898
Presbyterian Church of New South Wales Women’s Missionary Association
Cookery Book of Good and Tried Recipes Angus
and Robertson Sydney, NSW 1920(?)
Principles of Home Cookery, New South Wales Public School Cookery
Teachers' Association, Sydney 1932 6th Edition
Rutledge, Mrs Forster The Goulburn Cookery Book, National
Trust of Australia Sydney 1975 40th Edition compiled by Helen
Rutledge from 1905 and 1907 editions
Santich, Barbara Bold
Palates, Australia’s Gastronomic Heritage Wakefield Press Kent Town SA 2012
Statistics Section, Department of Immigration and
Multicultural Affairs Immigration.
Federation to Century’s End 1901–2000, Commonwealth of Australia, October
2001.
Symonds, Michael One
Continuous Picnic Penguin 1984 Ringwood Vic (first published by Duck Press
in 1982)
